As the temperature in most parts of Thailand hits 40 degree Celsius, Bangkok is cooling down its residents by pouring more than 30 million baht (US$688,000) into this weeks biggest-ever celebration of Songkran , or Water Festival, that marks the Thai new year.

That budget includes funds that went to using 250 metres of a major road in the old part of the Thai capital to set up what was supposedly the biggest fountain in the world, as well a mix of light decorations, light-and-sound shows and beauty contests.

A kilometre-long, colourful parade of more than 100 floats representing the countrys 76 provinces launched the celebrations  which this year has stretched to all of nine days, the longest ever, starting from April 7.

Usually, the whole festivities last from April 12-15, the peak being Songkran Day or the traditional Thai New Years Day, on April 13.

So far, tourism officials are quite satisfied that more than 400,000 people, Thais and foreigners, took part in the celebrations. Somsak Thepsutin, a minister at the Prime Ministers Office and chairman of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), said: I believe we can expect lots more tourists to come to Thailand as we (TAT) plan to have even bigger celebration in the following years.

But the heavy emphasis on the commercial side of Songkran this year  some say due to the changes that urbanisation brings as well as its adjustment for tourism purposes  has left many asking where the real cultural flavour of it has gone.

Many have had to search for it amid efforts, led by the TAT and the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA), to make Songkran a world-class event to mark the 200th anniversary of Bangkok this year and to put it on the world tourism map.

Biggest Thai festival

Newspapers have been busy reporting revenue projections of tourist spending during Songkran, apart from the promotions and staged events to mark the years biggest festival in Thailand.

According to TAT, more than 360,000 foreign tourists were to visit the country during Songkran, and are expected to spend about 15 billion baht (US$344 million) in the country. Tourism is a major revenue earner for Thailand, which gets 10 million tourists a year.

But this stress on Songkran as a commodity speaks of bigger changes in Thai society, says Chayant Polphoke, a consultant with the non-government group Tourism Investigation and Monitoring Team.

The Songkran festivities used to focus more heavily on tradition. Songkran was originally the time of year when families and friends reunited and paid respect to seniors by gently sprinkling a small volume of perfumed water on them.

But it has turned into a yearly water war  anarchy, some say but fun, others point out  as residents and tourists use plastic water cannons to douse others.

Water has been central theme of Thai society binding community together. It is the symbol of peaceful living, Chayant explained. But as life has become urbanised, this old concept has faded and Songkran is only thought of as a long holiday when people take a break from their stress at work to relax and travel.

Thais used to celebrate Songkran, which has roots in a northern Indian tradition, within the community. Today, people think more about how the festival will make money, including for their province, and it is marketed as a tourist attraction.

New tourism culture>

Tourism tries to centralise the celebration to make locals think their celebration is no longer as nice as in Bangkok or Chiang Mai (northern Thailand). They then have to go out for something new, said Chayant. This becomes new culture of tourism. We can say tourism does not destroy the old value of Songkran, but creates a new value to it.

Once Songkran becomes a celebration for mass tourism and people from different places come to join in, the real meaning of water splashing is easily forgotten, he added. It then becomes only a wet exchange and sometimes turns into a water war.

Still, Thai officials say the government wants Songkran marked in a more polite way and holding organised festivities might help this. This year, the use of pressured-water guns and talcum power, which revellers mix withwater, was banned because this kind of water throwing causes eye injuries and traffic accidents.

Others say that the government is also stressing the spectacle part of Songkran  whether for local or foreign travellers  to boost revenues from tourism.

The boost to the domestic economy at a time of economic uncertainty from these tourism activities is one of the key policies of the government. It was adopted to counter the fall in international arrivals after the Sept 11 attacks in the United States, Pana Janviroj, editor of the Bangkok-based English newspaper The Nation , said this week.

Counterfeit celebrations

In letters published by local papers in the last week, readers have expressed concern about what they call counterfeit Songkran celebrations.

Some complained about how the excesses of Songkran amounted to an assault with water, and others asked how much water would be wasted during the festival.

One criticised the Bangkok government for ruining his real holiday because many Bangkok residents are remaining in the city to take part in the staged events. In the past, this megacity of 7 million people usually turns into a deserted city as people return to their hometowns.

According to a survey by Spa Advertising Co last month, 62 percent of respondents said they would rather celebrate the festival with their friends, while only 36 percent opted to spend it their families.

I normally go back to my hometown during Songkran, said 21-year-old Sudjai Roh-mud, a university student from Sakaeo province, 220km east of Bangkok. But I think this year I might instead go to Khao San Road (a touristy street) with my friends.

Things change with time

Its going to be great fun, she said. I wonder though if it is right that Songkran celebrations have to involve so much of these fun activities. What my family and I normally do back at home is we go to the temple and make merit, she added, recalling a practice in this mainly Buddhist country.

Khao San Road, best known as a haven for foreign backpackers visiting Bangkok, is also a popular place to celebrate Songkran.

This is my second time in Thailand, 33-year-old American tourist Eric Wolters said in an interview. I wasnt here during Songkran last time so my friends, Thais and farang (westerners) said I have to come back for it.

I didnt really expect the celebration here to be in such a grand style, he said. Im now ready for a soaking.

Its very different from Songkran I knew when I was young, 79-year-old Kaew Sawamipakdi says of celebrations in recent years. Then, we greeted and asked peoples permission before pouring a small amount of water on their hands or shoulder, wishing them good luck for the coming year and they did the same to us.

But I think things have to change when time changes, she mused. I like what I saw on TV of the grand celebration, but it must be a lot waste of money and water.

Actually, Chayant added, "The concept of the extraordinary (such as the biggest incense sticks, the longest dinner table) for tourism is not something new. The idea has been conceptualised since 1987, when Thailand faced an economic crisis.

Said Chayant: We have never really asked how much the country gain from this kind of tourism and if it is worth the investment.