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In the early 1980s, Barisan Nasional made a blunder which cost them many Chinese votes in Terengganu. It seemed a simple matter - a change of name - but the repercussions from that action were great, residents say.

The state government had renamed Kampung Cina, a quaint Chinese settlement in the heart of the state's capital Kuala Terengganu, to Jalan Bandar. This left the Chinese feeling 'cheated' and 'edgy' for years.

Many felt a sort of sentimental attachment to the name christened by their forebears some two hundred years ago, when the Chinese first arrived in the east coast state.

"The name Jalan Bandar did not reflect the sentiments of the Chinese, who felt a sense of belonging to the area. The Chinese had lived there from as far back as the 18th century," said Tan Eng Hock.

However, the 'beautiful' arch decorated with Chinese motives was not a state project; it was built with donations from the Chinese community.

The PAS government abolished the tax when it took over the helm and present Terengganu Mentri Besar Abdul Hadi Awang reasoned that "RM600 is only a small sum and wouldn't benefit the government much anyway".

Business as usual

Other than running small-scale family businesses such as stationery shops, restaurants and tourist spots, Chinese residents, who had mostly lived here for six generations, say "it is business as usual" and the new government is not a threat to their livelihood.

Residents are free to sell pork openly, four days a week, a privilege they did not enjoy under the previous BN-led government.

Pork sellers were told they could even request land to breed pigs for local consumption, but importing is preferred as it is more hygienic.

There are currently 10 pork sellers and eight licensed liquor sellers in Kuala Terengganu alone whereas one of the biggest supermarket, Hock Lee Seng, is owned by a local Chinese businessman.

Poh Koon Seng, a teacher who owns the Redang Bay Resort, says his business is flourishing due to the recent increase of tourists flocking to the state.

Since April, the state has been packed with local and foreign tourists. Local residents say the beach is calmer during this period. The local school holidays which coincide with this period often lead to difficulties in obtaining transportation to this part of the country as well as getting accommodation there.

Islamic government

Tan Joo Seng, who heads the Wakaf Buddhist Association, says residents are free to practise their own faith without interference from the Islamic government.

Joo Seng says the Terengganu Buddhist society runs classes for children. He is planning to apply for land to build a hall to conduct more Buddhist-related activities. He is confident the state government will approve his application.

"Life is peaceful here. We do not ask for much as long as we can carry on with our lives peacefully," he said.

As for the 'mountain' made out of the restrictions on gambling, karaoke and liquor drinking, keropok retailer Chew Teng Whee said "such things are not our culture. It is just some people's habits".

He is outraged by Pahang MCA Indera Mahkota state assembly representative Ti Lean Ker, who recently accused PAS of wanting to demolish statues if the party came into power.

Ti had said this when he was explaining the powers of the Chinese business god Kuan Kung, saying that many Chinese businessmen pray to that god in their premises.

"If everyone could become rich by just praying to Kuan Kung, then no one has to work," said Chew, in jest.

"Look at the statues in my home. PAS has come into power, are these statues destroyed?" he queried.

Dirty place

However, the new state government has not escaped criticism from foreigners and locals alike.

Two Dutch tourists, Geke and Patrick, whom this journalist met in Kampung Cina, expressed disappointment at the "sad state of affairs" of the state's tourism sector such as poor hotel service.

"We did not have enough food in the morning. The hotel staff should have known and prepared well before hand. Tourists have money and want to spend it here but with the poor service...," they lamented.

The couple who stayed in Hotel Continental added, "The place is rather dirty, unlike the West Coast, where everywhere is quite clean."

But a state official offers an excuse: The state government does not have enough money to employ more people to do a better job as the federal government has 'hijacked' the oil royalty, which was the state's biggest source of income.

However, Geke is pleased that men do not 'touch' or harass her and she feels safe and comfortable travelling in Malaysia, unlike in other countries such as some in Africa.

Tourists do not seem perturbed by the lack of entertainment in the state, though one can still find local bands playing away in hotel lounges. Many say they travel to 'this part of the world' to enjoy nature's beauty.

That is the kind of entertainment they say they cannot find in their 'concrete jungles' way back home.

Chinese affairs

Before Prime Minister Dr Mahathir Mohamad thought of appointing special assistants to aid him in Chinese affairs, PAS in Terengganu had already appointed an inter-racial state liaison officer to handle Chinese or non-Muslim affairs.

The officer, Ng Chai Hing, has lived there for about 23 years. He came from Kluang, Johor and had worked as a construction site labourer when he was only 17.

He believes he was appointed because of his close ties with the state's Chinese population - which totals about 36,000 or four percent of Terengganu's 900,000 residents - and for his cooperation during the last general elections.

Ng, who spoke the Terengganu colloquial Malay fluently, says the Chinese live well alongside other races in the state.

Terengganu now has seven appointed non-Muslim town councillors in various states such as Kuala Terengganu (two officers), Kemaman (two), Dungun (one), Marang (one) and Setiu (one).

The Chinese, he says, are pleased with the new state government which has abolished toll collection along the 4km Jalan Sultan Mahmud Bridge the day it took control.

Following that, residents were exempted from paying quit rent, which used to cost them about RM300 annually, he adds.

Ng says the present government has increased welfare funds for hardcore poor families and single parents, from RM150 to RM250 and RM60 to RM100 respectively.

It is also encouraging people to apply for plots of land as it is concerned about people having "roofs over their heads", says Ng. This benefit applies even to non-Muslims.

Civil servants work a five-day week and female staff are entitled to a three-month paid maternity leave because "the state government treasures family life".

"Unfortunately, these are the good things which do not gain publicity. The MCA often makes a big issue out of drinking and gambling, as if it is a do-or-die situation," said Ng.

Ng says drinking became an issue when Muslims drank and purchased liquor. He says he has explained to the Chinese community that they should not abuse their freedom and should instead respect the Muslim's way of life by not selling liquor to Malays.

"Just as they respect us, we should respect them," he said, adding some businessmen urged the government to allow them to sell liquor in supermarkets to cater for tourists and non-Muslim residents.

"We are trying to resolve this issue by coming up with new regulations," said Ng, who adds that the state government has had three dialogue sessions with the community.

Election promises

Despite being rich in oil, the state is suffering from a poverty rate of 17.6 percent, the second highest in the country, after Sabah.

To improve the situation, PAS members of parliament have gone overseas to explore the possibility of private investment companies setting up businesses in the Malay-dominated state, but results haven't been forthcoming so far.

Ng says although PAS has lived up to most of its election promises, it is yet to develop the state's potential in terms of integrated agriculture, construction, tourism, fishery, and small- and medium-scale industries.

He blames the former government for not doing enough for the people and depleting the state's rich resources which, unfortunately, have become the new government's burden.

"Terengganu used to earn about RM1 billion in oil royalties but the BN government could not manage the funds properly," said Ng, claiming that most of the money has been lost due to mismanagement and corruption.

While the PAS government has an uphill task developing the state with much reduced funds, at least the other battle of maintaining the confidence of its non-Muslim electorate looks pretty much in the bag.

There have been fears of PAS imposing Taliban-like rules and laws, but the non-Muslim residents interviewed concede that at this moment everything is fine.

As one said: "What else do we need?"