opinion

In a manner typical of his breed, the real estate agent neglected to mention the stained mattress. It was not until nearly at the doorstep of the apartment that he suddenly thought he should mention that the building, as he put it, 'had a history'.

Possibly, he had a flash of conscience, or, more likely, thought the foreigner may know something about Malaysian politics. Shuffling and looking embarrassed, he said: "This building is notorious."

"Oh," I said. "Why is that?"

After a long pause: "The former deputy prime minister, Mr Anwar, used to come to the building."

"Well, so what?

"Ah, he used to visit here occasionally."

Sensing the man was having trouble, I came to his rescue. "You mean his alleged sexual escapades took place here."

Seldom has a man looked so relieved. "Yes, his sexual escapades took place here," he parroted.

"In that case, I'll take the apartment."

It was barely even necessary to look around, as an address with such cachet, steeped in such a so-called sordid history, was too good to pass up. The landlady, the lovely Miss X, was also relieved that I knew something about the case.

She was at great pains to stress that she had bought a new mattress just in case I confusedly thought it was 'that mattress'. I assured her that not for one moment did I think that the stained mattress paraded around the courtroom was the one on my bed.

Assasins? So what ...

Tivoli Villa to my mind was a perfect address for a new correspondent in Malaysia. My address soon became an office talking point.

The building's management still seems to consider Tivoli as the ultimate address, as the bins still have a 'magnificent place to live' written on them.

Even without the appeal of Mr Anwar's adventures, a more garish edifice, combining the worst excesses of architecture over many centuries, would be difficult to find. Normally, the first hint of a Doric column would be an excuse to cross Tivoli off the list of desirable residences.

The lovely Miss X thought that she should warn me that the building was also notorious for other libidinous trysts. Apparently, it is very popular for wealthy tycoons to keep a mistress at Tivoli, another good reason for moving in immediately.

Miss X thought it best for me to keep away from the mistresses, issuing the caveat that rich men would have no difficulty in hiring an assassin. Echoes of Thailand, where the police have a list of about 1,500 assassins.

I had even interviewed a Thai assassin once in connection with the contract killing of a foreign corporate specialist. A story in the paper the next day about a hit on a Singapore businessman confirmed that Malaysia, too, probably had a thriving hit industry.

Anyway, rather than being deterred, I was determined to go on a mystery hunt. Miss X reluctantly told me that they would probably go around to the pool to hone up the tan in the early evening. Of course, they would not want to wake up too early, or risk the searing heat of the day.

Religiously I have been around the pool at about 5pm every day to absolutely no avail. Unfortunately, there was not a mistress in sight. Of course, I wasn't quite sure what I would do if I did see one.

"Tivo ...','Ya, ya, boleh, boleh!'

I did, however, find the apartment where the alleged Anwar shenanigans took place. It is just on the left through the entrance, overlooking the pool.

Another legacy of the Anwar incident: Tivoli resembles a fortress, with dogs growling, guards patrolling and iron gates at night that a tank could not penetrate. At least it is unlikely I will be robbed.

Another positive of life at Tivoli is that it is almost impossible to get lost. Even drunk, I only have to begin to splutter Tivoli Villa and the taxi driver knows where to go.

Tivoli may not be the most desirable residence for a diplomat, for example, but for a news hound there could seldom be a better dateline than the apartment building that sowed the seeds of the former deputy prime minister's downfall.

ALICE WONDER is the pseudonym of a leading Australian newspaper's senior correspondent based in Malaysia who has 25 years experience as a journalist, 18 of them in Asia.